The canal du Midi by bike from Le Somail to Sète

A string of wine-making villages, Argens-Minervois, Roubia, Paraza and Ventenac-en-Minervois, congregate here beside the Canal du Midi, calling for your attention! Le Somail’s port was where the canal’s designer, Pierre-Paul Riquet, calculated that the post barge should stop for the couchée, or sunset, on the third day of its trip from Toulouse. Now, Le Somail is one of the canal’s most attractive stops, a picture-postcard village with its port, chapel, canal-side accommodation and amazing antiquarian bookshop.

It’s a wrench leaving enchanting Le Somail. Although the port of Sète is a long way off, this is just a short stage to Capestang, signalled by the bell tower of St-Félix Church, which guides you to this village’s central square, where you can enjoy a rest in the shade of the plane trees.

This stage is packed with surprises. The 17th-century Tunnel de Malpas draws the attention, built as Europe’s first-ever navigable canal tunnel. On the hill above, visit the impressive vestiges of a pre-Roman, Celtic settlement, the Oppidum d’Ensérune. From here, look down on the amazing pattern of the dried-out circular lake of Montady, originally dug by medieval monks. Then admire the extraordinary nine locks of Fonsérannes and the splendid canal-bridge over the Orb River with magnificent views up to historic Béziers.

From the port at Béziers, the Canal du Midi à Vélo cycle route heads east towards the Mediterranean. You might halt briefly at Villeneuve-lès-Béziers or at Portiragnes before arriving at the Pont de Roque Haute. From here, Portiragnes Beach lies very close by and you can reach it easily for a refreshing dip in the Med! Further on, the mobile bridge built to control the River Libron and the round lock at Agde are extraordinary curiosities.

The town of Agde, with its ancient roots and black basalt architecture, is a startling place. Its soaring church tower looks down on the Hérault Estuary. You’re now reaching the very end of the Canal du Midi à Vélo cycle route, which finishes by the massive Etang de Thau coastal lake and Les Onglous Lighthouse at Marseillan-Plage resort. From here, the superb Lido greenway runs alongside the Mediterranean up to the great port of Sète. Stop for a dip at any point!